Eucalyptus FAQs

When is the best time to plant?

In cold areas with an early autumn it is preferable to plant in April, May or June to allow the plants to have a seasons growth before their first winter. In all other areas because the plants are container grown they can be planted between mid March and October. Watering may be necessary, especially during the summer months, until they are established. Between November and mid March do not plant outside, however you can upon receipt repot in an eight inch pot and overwinter in a greenhouse or conservatory that receives direct sunlight. Ensure that the roots do not freeze and water occasionally. The plants will get off to a quick start when you plant out in April. In major frost pockets and severely exposed windy sites there are a few species that will grow but they will not make such good specimens as those growing in more sheltered, warmer areas.

Are they suitable as a hedge?

Certain species with a smaller size of adult leaf and a tendency to keep their lower branches can make an attractive 7 to 10ft (2-3 metres) hedge. They are not suitable for a lower hedge as they will open up to some extent at the bottom after a while. Particularly good is E. coccifera. Also E. archeri, E. parvula and E.subcrenulata are worth considering. It is essential to prune the plants at the end of their second seasons growth to begin to shape them for a hedge. Remove a third of the height and cut to an inverted 'V' shape removing some of the side branches in September. By hedging at this time the naked buds are able to develop before the end of the growing season so that new growth starts immediately in spring. Alternatively trim back in the same way in April. This will delay regrowth for about six weeks but the hedge will look better over winter.
The following year remove a quarter to a third of the height again and in a similar way shape the sides to an inverted 'V'. Once the hedge has reached the height you require then cut back in the same way every year either in September or April. By so doing you prevent the upper leaves from shading the lower leaves and will discourage the plant from shedding its lower branches. Plant at 5-6ft (1.5-1.8 metres) apart and cut the hedge to a width at the bottom of about 4ft (1.2 metres).

How near can I plant to a house or building?
If you want to allow them to grow to a tree, plant away from buildings and ensure there is no oversahde. They should be at least two thirds the potential mature height away from a building (more on clay soils) unless they are to be coppiced regularly which restricts the root growth. Eucalyptus roots are not as aggressive as Poplar roots, but root growth is very rapid. They are mainly shallow rooting depending on soil type and rainfall. About 90% of the roots are concentrated in the top 12 inches of soil. For maximum growth it is absolutely essential to keep the plant free of weed competition, particularly grass root competition for at least the first two years.

Why do Eucalyptus grow so fast?

Eucalypts have evolved particularly successful ways of producing shoots which helps to explain their capacity for rapid growth or regeneration. These habits are quite unlike our native trees. Buds are present in the axil of every Eucalyptus leaf as it unfolds from the parent growing tip. These are called naked buds and are capable of rapid growth as soon as the parent leaf unfolds. The ones nearer the tips continue to produce new growth without limit and in the axil of each new leaf is another naked bud. The number of leaves that can separate from the growing tip is indefinite and the naked buds expand simultaneously. Also present at the base of the naked buds is an area which, if the naked buds and stem leaves are damaged, can take over growth. They are called accessory buds. These can replace the original buds within a few weeks. Should these be damaged further shoots will develop. They do not require a resting period before they form new shoots. This is a very successful mechanism to ensure growth. Conversely the buds of our native trees contain the complete annual shoot in embryo form. When these buds open in the spring they unfold and the whole annual shoot reaches its final size in a few weeks. The buds that will make next years shoots are slowly made in the leaf axils and they usually require a resting period before they expand.
Most Eucalypts also develop lignotubers. They start life as swellings in the axils of the cotyledons or first few seedling leaves and tend to fold down the stem and bury themselves beneath the soil. They can produce very many leafy shoots if the crown of the tree is destroyed and will replace the original stem. In Australia they are most important because the lignotubers are usually undamaged by fire or browsing and will allow the tree to regenerate. Added to this ability to grow indefinitely during the growing season is their relative freedom in the U.K. from native pests and diseases, also their evergreen leaves are available to photosynthesise immediately weather conditions are suitable.

I want to move my Eucalyptus. Can I do this?

Unless the plant has been growing for less than two seasons it is extremely difficult to successfully transplant Eucalypts without the correct machinery. To transplant younger trees they require both undercutting and side root pruning the year before moving. Cut a circle into the soil of 1ft radius around the trunk with a long spade blade. Do this in March one year and move the following spring taking a rootball of 1½ft radius. It is also helpful to remove about half the leaf area to reduce transpiration losses. Ensure they are well irrigated for at least 6 weeks afterwards. The success rate on larger trees is low. It is therefore important to ensure that they are planted where they are to grow to maturity in the first place.